The creative director of Acne took the words right out of my mouth:
"It's the way they dress," Johansson said of his clientele. "It's that moment when you're not grown up and at the same time, not a kid."
With that being said, here's what I liked from the F2011 Menswear collections (It's mainly about coats):
Burberry Prorsum: An entire line of finely executed coats. I like the coherence that comes along with the brightness of Burberry's color palette. The proportions of most of their coats in this line are inventive, the orange coat in particular gives that skinny model a presence that maybe a blazer or peacoat wouldn't. The third model's outfit is a very pleasant rendition of WWII aviator attire, and the grey-green pants are cut so well. Also I was impressed with this lines bags.
Acne: I believe this might be the simplest yet most elegant execution of a look in the entire season. Tan is a good color, it goes with almost everything.
Balmain: The toggle coat, it appears in various collections this season. It's all very Tom Sawyeresque.
Kris Van Assche: Much like the Women's S/S Collection for 2011 the box shape appears here and in other places as well. I am attracted to the way it hangs on the model and the oversized sweater look is very appealing.
Lanvin: I picked these coats because they are first of all beautiful aesthetic garments but also because this is a perfect example of moving away from military/sailor style coats that fashion has been drowning in for countless years.
Pringle of Scotland: Hands down my favorite line. From the intricate construction of that inspiring coat the doubles under itself and becomes part of its own collar to the earthy but not cliche colors selected. I am a huge fan of the legwarmers that every model's trousers are tucked into and the beautiful riding pant that some of the models are wearing. Some other things to highlight: THAT FUR TRIMMED COAT! And all of the knit outerwear.
Just an addendum, I don't know why either but that ginger model for Pringle of Scotland is really handsome.
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